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modeling a house

D

DrWily55

New member
I am a long time pro/e user, but I have never attempted to use if for something like a house, or home re-building project. Has anyone done this, and what did you find that worked and didn't work.


As an example I built a framed wall from 2x4 studs (not seperate in this case) that are on 16 inch centers. Then relations to control the pattern (number of studs needed) by the length of the shoe. I then assembled the frame to the structure, did a cutout for the door and then assembled the door, which was modeled seperate.


Anyone have any suggestions or have done this before. It seems (without a long winded explanation) the best way to do it is creating parts and assembling each and every piece. Like 10 gazillon 2x4s. Is that how anyone else has done it?


Thanks in advance.
 
YOU CAN ALWAYS USE THE PATTERN TABLE WHILE IN ASSEMBLY MODE DELETING OUT 2X4'S OR ADJUST INDIVIDUAL SPACING NEEDS OR REMOVING WHERENOT NEEDED ASSUMING YOUR USING WILDFIRE
 
Guess it depends on what you're after finally.


If you want a BOM, enabling you to calculate the cost for instance, you definetely have to proceed the way you are : assemble, sub-assemble, sub-sub-assemble ...


If you're only after having basic geometry,designing the house, inspecting repercussions of room size, getting best location for windows and doors, ... then you'll have a far better approach by "cutting" your house out of a block, thin shell it, add walls, make cutouts, ...


You might even combine the two : model the bulk house until you're satisfied with the design and then use this as a frame to attach the real thing to.


At times when I needed a building (e.g. designing the set for a theatre play or designing a structure to hold the lights of a discotheque) I used the bulk appoach. In those cases however I didn't need any drawings afterwards to show anybody how to construct the building.


Alex
 
Good tips by both of you. I talked to a contractror friend of mine last night and his tip, which was mentioned, was the BOM. That seems to be a very important detail that I hadn't thought about. With that, it would have to be an assembly, and like you say, assemble, sub-assemble, and sub-sub-assemble some more. Like just about all the models and assemblies I have ever built, if you were going to do it again, you would do it a little different. This is no different, except I have the time to do it different.


Thanks for the tips.
 
To get a useable BOM you need to start with standard lumber sizes, assemble them and then make assembly cuts to trim them to length. It is a great top down design exercise.
 
I glanced at this post half a dozen times before I realized it DIDNT say model a MOUSE>>>
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Top down design? Like starting with a skeleton and/or using a layout? That would be interesting. Might have to play around with that.


Component interface? I'm not sure I follow you on that one. Can you elaborate?


Since my experience is with anything and everything other than a house or house framing, I didn't have much of a plan to start with. As ususal with pro, you need to think down the road to define what kind of output you want. All you might want is a look and some dimensions or you may want an accurate BOM. But you need to decide this up front so you can model and/or assemble accordingly. I didn't really do this, and once I got startedwished I would have done some things differently. I get the feeling, if done correctly, pro could be a very powerfull design tool in this kind of applicaton. I'm just not sure what "correctly" is. The good thing is, unlike at work, I have the time to play around to get the output I am looking for.


Thanks for the tips.
 
in your 2x4 part go to edit/setup then pick comp interface this lets you put constraints in the part that you can use in the assembly. look under help for more info.
 
While ProE is great for mechanical parts, it might be worth looking at the home design programs to do this. Software like Punch Home design or Punch Architectural series are better suited for this. They will output the bom from the design, as well as producing shaded walk thru models (3d surfaces only- but they can create VRML of the design.) The house can be furnished, lit, surfaces textured to simulate the desired finishes, and landscaped as well. It is probably less effort to learn the software than to create all the little pieces you need to createin proE.


TahoeBob
 
View attachment 1308



View attachment 1309



View attachment 1310



This is something I done 3 months before now

3D design has been done in WildFire 2 M150, and visualisation in Alias
Maya. I use ProE in architectural field for some time and I have great
results - because speed, quality and power to choose how to design
something are much better than in case of other companies offers. This
is hotel finished in a few days (accessories also). I already try to
talk with people about ProE in this field, but with no or with a little
success. This is first time I see some other start talking about this.
People to who I believe tell me that before few years PTC has published
something very powerful and connected only with architectural field -
Anybody know something about that?
 
Cool! Is that a single part or assembly Speling?


I forgot about the component interface. Good tip, that will indeed make things eaiser and quicker.


I am working on the electric now. By modeling (sub-assemblies) the switches, junction boxes, and recepticles, you can get an accurate BOM of those,as well as lengths of wire using the pipe feature. Plus you can model and assemble stuff like TVs, washers, dryers and move them around to get the floor plan you want. It might not be made for this, but it sure can work.
 
I missed that when I looked the first time Speling. Sorry about that. They are cool though. Nice work.


I have continued working on my project and the more I use Pro to do it, the more I like it. Then next thing will be rendering, which I have never done (haven't needed to) but I got a feeling now is the time. I'll probably be back on asking questions about that as well.


Thanks all for your advise and tips. They were all helpful.
 
I'm in the process of modeling my house. 2000 sq ft split level, nothing special.


I just wanted to do it to have some fun (and get away from the wife)


I started with measuring, modeling and putting the texture on the concrete block foundation, assembled all 855 block using the repeat function.


I modeled 2 of the 3 floors and used 1 part for a 2x4stud with all different sizes in a family table. The same goes for 2x6, 2x8 etc.


I chose to do it this way just to have that level of detail and accuracy for future home improvements. Once I'm done with the house I plan on doing the yard.
 
I attempted modeling my basement before we finished it and decided it wasn't really worth it. I thought it would be cool and beneficial to have stud placement and wiring in Pro so I knew where it was once drywall was in.


I started by sketching (on paper) rough stud locations, trusses, windows, etc, but decided it really can't be accurate unless you measure each stud spacing. Those darn framers just can't place the studs within ProE tolerances
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In the long run, they will likely frame things the way they want.


For instance, we build a "sound proof" studio room in one corner. I modeled the wall between the room and main area using 2x6 top and bottom plateswith staggerd 2x4 construction and taped it to the basement door so they wouldn't miss it. Well, the first time they ignored the drawing, the second time they just framed it wrong, but finally got it right on the third try.


Bottom line. Expect you model to be an estimate only...
 
Moroso, I did the same thing with the studs. It really works well. If you assemble a wall frame and place studs at 16 inch centers by using a pattern, it's quick, simple and accurate. You can add lengths to the family table of the stud part to match the cuts you will need for proper wall lengths.


As an example, you have 2 96 inch (standard 8 foot lengths) end to end on the floor, then the vertical studs (using pattern)and the header, you have a wall frame. If your design really needs a 186 inch long wall, make an instance of the 2 x 4 stud 90 inches. Then go back to the assembly and pick one of the 8 foot floor studs, right click, replace, by family table, and choose the new 90 inch instance. It replaces the 96 with the 90 and you have the length wall frame you want.


I went a step farther and added a door, door frame and door knob. I created a cut in the wall sub-assembly to match the size of the door. Added two header studs for the top of the door. I then created a parameter called door and used the yes/no type value so I can add a door or not. I then built another sub-assembly and created a door frame (actual size) door with door knob as seperate parts. I assembled the door to the frame sub-assembly. Using pro/program I can turn the door on or off with the door parameter and I can replace a right and left handed door by family table instance of the door frame sub-assembly. Works great.


Now I'm having too much fun again. And I don't even have to get away from the wife. Thanks for the replys.
 
Speling, I have read your post before. I "think" you are from Asia or Europe, which makes me think about our different cultures. A good Wife, or wife, or girlfriend, is a good thing. Us guys just like our toys, and this is a good toy (pro/e). In America, we make jokes about our "better halves" and how to escape from them. In our culture that just means we love them. A funny way to say it, but we're kind of goofy I guess.
 
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