A curved parting line question- Hard to s

[pubojeff]

Hello Everyone~
Here is a mold parting question describing as below. I
used the Pro/e to split it.

I had used two method on this case. Both of them were in
vain.

Fail photo

Method 1 (Used the parting_surface only)

This method can't split the top and down mold
parts.
It show up the fail photo instantly such as the top
photo.



Method 2 (Used the paring_surface and
parting_block to split the top-mold and down-mold)

parting_surf_1 parting_surface
parting_surf_10 parting_block

This method can split the mold blocks. However, it can
only inspect the mold islands, not continuing to split
the mold parts. Hope a senior can tutor this question and
guide the other people they might also interest in mold
parting skill. Thank you.

File download:

download address
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B66goludRP4YcHptbUpGNmczN
WM/edit?pli=1

Notice
Sorry.The GOOGLE DRIVER web link will
automatically generate the %20%20% inside of the web
address string. Please remove out these interfere string.

Edited by: pubojeff

 

[solidworm]

link your part again using firefox, this forum is incompatible with chrome and maybe other browsers.

 

[pubojeff]

link your part again using firefox, this
forum is incompatible with chrome and maybe other browsers.

Thanks a lot.
I had corrected the file address.

 

[dgs]

I haven't done mold splits in a loooooong time, but two
things strike me a possible issues.

1 - Accuracy. All your files must have the same absolute
accuracy to avoid problems.

2 - In order to split properly, a parting surface has to
completely divide the volume. So your main parting
surface (quilt) must go from the edge of the cavity to
the edge of the work piece, but that assumes that any
internal shut offs have already been extracted so they
are not an issue. If not, your main parting surface must
pass through the cavity and divide the shutoffs as well.

It's hard to tell from your images (and your link didn't
work for me) where the problem might be, but I'd bet it
was one of these two.

 

[pubojeff]

I haven't done mold splits in a loooooong
time, but two
things strike me a possible issues.

1 - Accuracy. All your files must have the same absolute
accuracy to avoid problems.

I had been in a windows showed up the
accuracy notice when I imported this part. However, I
ignore it. Is it a fatal failure factor?(>_<)I attached
the original file for all of intelligent you.

2 - In order to split properly, a parting surface has to
completely divide the volume. So your main parting
surface (quilt) must go from the edge of the cavity to
the edge of the work piece, but that assumes that any
internal shut offs have already been extracted so they
are not an issue. If not, your main parting surface must
pass through the cavity and divide the shutoffs as well.

I copy a non-paring surface from the work
reference(part)and extend the edge to seal the all
parting surface on Method 1. Also, I used the interfere
inspection and system found out it has the brother
interfere and I couldn't find it. It must has something
passed through the cavity as you said.

It's hard to tell from your images (and your link didn't
work for me) where the problem might be, but I'd bet it
was one of these two.

If you automatically use the web line, it will link to
wrong address.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B66goludRP4YcHptbUpGNmczN
%20%20WM/edit?pli=1

Please help me remove out the %20%20 in
the web address string and it can work out Google driver
link.

 

[pubojeff]

link your part again
using firefox, this
forum is incompatible with chrome and maybe other
browsers.

Thanks a lot.
I had corrected the file address.

SORRY~~
PLEASE REMOVE THE %20%20 INSIDE OF THE WEB LINK TO GOOGLE
DRIVER.

 

[krow72]

Is your part solid? (I downloaded the parts but will not open in WF4) You can not split the mold that way if you are working with a surface part that has not been solidified. It looks to me that you have some surfaces missing around the varied posts unless they are all undercut at the top (this is what lead me to believe that your part is not solid).


It has been an long while since I have used Pro-Mold but I remember that some times I had to extend my parting surface past my block to get it to work. And yes, Doug is correct that all parts have to have the same absolute accuracy for your split to work (in most cases).