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Huh, I will try to translate it and give it decryption.
It is welding device, where u putt parts of sheet metal (and all other parts of assembly), then u use this device to tighten all parts together so you can weld them into composite assembly.
No I didn't have EFX, I modeled it in regular WF (its relay not a problem once you create standard U profile using family table you got them all!)
its a little after midnight here.. lot of work to do.. I've a deadline for monday so no sleep for me!
I'm trying to refresh my VSS and Pro/Surface knowledge.. I havent used them in a while! (I usually use ISDX..)
off topic.. I was in Croatia last year on holidays! loved it! was in Dubrovnik, Split and Korcula (spent most of my time there here) met some very nice locals there would would literally do anything for you! I'd recomend it to everybody!
true.. family tables are teh way to go, but all those bolts! AHHHHHH!
efx. click and done!
I've never actually used it.. but have seen a few demos ond I gotta say it's a must for framework! at the end of the dat the few grand extra it costs in comparrison to the amount of man hours you'd save if working on framwork constantly would be quite a saving!
there was an efx challenge at the world event this year where users got the chance to race a PTC guy creating small frame piece.. nobody got anywhere near him.. the closest was 12 min in comparison to his 3m 40s.. most people averages around 15 min I think..
Nice to hear that u love it in Croatia. If you will go again let me know so maybe we can arrange to meat each other
(well I'm not from see side but I know also great places inland.
For me to is also better to work over the night because I got better concentration, and its so quiet so I can think clearly
I hope I will finish my work tomorrow, so I will post it here (soon as I finish it)
About this welding device, all this parts are custom made and adapted to this weld Assembly so workers can easy use it to quickly well this asm. Also you can rotate this device (180 degrees) so you (well workers) can aces to other side of assembly to weld the parts together.
I would say that the modeling was not the issue here (I spend about 15% of time on modeling, and assembling, and creating drawings), the problem was to create easy made construction, and most of all to create easy, quickly and precise device (I spend about 75% of time to thinking and trying to other solutions), so worker should assembled (weld) 16 of this weld asm on a day.
How to set up this kind of floor? Anny tips (for WF2), please!!
I was rendering on Athlon 2500+ barton, 1Gb of ram, DDR 400 Kingmax, Nvidia, FX5600 pro (tweaked to Quadro 1000), for my weld device (if I remember it correctly) 20-45 min on WF2
very very very nice! love the lenser flair! haven't played with that as yet.. and the materials. perfect!!
I have the pleasure (and the hole in my bank balance) of owning a nice 3GHxdual xeon (800MHz FSB 64bit enabled) supermicro machine (max of 24 GB of ecc registered ram, Ionly have 2, thefull 24 would have cost
This kind of floor you can do without problem in WF2 using Photolux.
Material for this floor is ceramic. It was used without any
modification. That material is available in Graphic Library provided by
PTC. I can send you 'taht floor' if you want.
I don't have much experience in rendering but I think one of the most
important issues for a good render is the light. Pay attention to the
intensivity of the light, it should be 0.8-1.2 (for the most cases).
1: Turn off the ambient light, it will make for a much more realistic render.
2: Use the default light with a soft shadow. Make sure you lock the lights to the model so you dont lose their position when turning and positioning the lights.
3: Position a light bulb above and slightly in front of the model you are rendering.
4: Use another direction light slightly above and in from of the model aiming at the front corner of the model. I typically change the color of this light. Ohhh, my render just finished, if worthy i will post it....and its not.
5: For the room, lower the ceiling just above the model and use fresnel reflect set at 50% reflectivity, that will give you the shininess desired on paint and chrome.
6: It is not necessary to use 10 scans for ray tracing, 5 will do and keep your rendering time down. The lower the anti-ailiasing percentage is set and the higher the scans are set the better the render will be, these settings at high detail require a fairly powerful computer or you will be waiting for your render for a while.
7: If you are having problems with your textures looking blah it is most likely just the shininess settings. It took me a while to figure out the settings needed to make realistic metals and paints. Here are my paint settings from the car render.
color: red 255/ green 0/ blue 0 color intensity: 50/ ambient 50 (doesnt matter if not using ambient light.
highlight color:red 242/ green 140/ blue 0color highlight:shine 100/ intensity 80 Reflectivity: 27 All others not mentioned are lowest setting.
It is possible to get a nice render with just three lights, its basically all i ever use. If your textures are not setup correctly, the lighting wont matter. FYI...most things do not need to be set as shiny as you would think, atleast not the intensity. Its typically ok to set the shininess fairly high as longa s the intensity is turned down. Hope this helps, sorry so long, just trying to spread some knowledge.
thanks james for compliments but I think you are the person who deserve
to much more compliments. I read a lot of your posts and I learnd a lot
form them. I thought at first that you are very experienced
designer working in that field (Pro/E) for almost 15 years. Your
knowleadge and your enthusiasm to discover new things is great.
I think that those settings will try on my new work (when I finish it) for rendering
And thanks sim@ for floor tip (I got all textures, including that you mention it)
But the thing I lost so many time is positing the floor in relation to model (like in yours rendering when model touch the floor) and I never be able to positing it right.
So is there easy way to positing floor exactly to model or you must spend some time to fixed it right?
15 years.. Ha.. love it! nearly there.. only 1..2.. no no .. the whole 15 left to go! cheers for the complement tho'! Glad you have learned from me, as I have from so many others! (puppet, israr, dr_gallup, cristeliano (I just know I spelled his name wrong..woops) xcad and everybody else)
I've been using pro for maybe the last 18 months.. with a few monthsof a break last summer.. after heading over to the world event in Nashville last june (2004) it really opened my eyes to the capabilities of Pro.. and I came back saying "I want to know it all!!" to which everybody wished me well while the muttered "what a nutter" under their breath!
.. so knowing that i had a masters to do and I could pretty much pick my topic, I thought of a completely ridiculous topic which would force me to learn as many aspects of ProE as possible in the space of a year and off I went!
CPiotrowski
thanks for the Tips.. quite informative.. can I ask about the texture used on the yamaha image?
if anybody woud like to make a video tutorial I'd be happy to host it a little later in the summer (see mysignature) please private message me about it as it cannot be discussed on the open forums.
isair, roughly position it by simply spining the model, then, lock it to the model (instead of the studio) then view from front and use the rotate abotu axis to tune the position.. do the same looking from the side.. job done!
Actually you can just hit reset room rotation button in the room editor, that will reset the room back to parallel with the model in a standard view, then lock the room to the model, zoom in and move the floor up to the model.
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